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Skin care ingredients: A beginner’s glossary

Jade Biggs
Writer and expert3 months ago
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Model with tanned skin and curly hair wears a skin care mask on her face

Remember when we thought skin care was nothing more than a quick make up wipe across our face before bed? Not quite the 10-step routine many of us are used to now.  

Yep, skin care is serious business these days — but it can be hard to know where to start, especially when it feels like you need a degree in science to understand an ingredients label. Thankfully, there’s no need to send off a Student Finance request form just yet, as we’ve got all the ingredient intel you need — saving you three years spent at skin care university. 

Read on for our at-a-glance beginner’s guide to skin care ingredients... 

SKIN CARE INGREDIENTS GLOSSARY

AHAs

AHA stands for alpha hydroxy acid — don’t be put off by the mention of acid, though. AHAs work wonders if a radiant complexion is on your wishlist, helping to exfoliate away dead skin cells to reveal smooth, glowing skin. Some of the most common AHAs are glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid and mandelic acid. 

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BHAs

Another acid, coming up. BHA stands for beta hydroxy acid, but unlike AHAs, these are oil-soluble, meaning they can cut through the oil that often blocks pores. For this reason, BHAs — like salicylic acid — are typically recommended to those with oily, combination or blemish-prone skin. 

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CBD

Short for cannabidiol, CBD is an anti-inflammatory extract derived from hemp plants and is a go-to for easing the look of redness, irritation and dryness. 

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Ceramides

Ceramides (a skin-mimicking ingredient) help prevent moisture loss and promote the look of supple skin, while also working to protect against environmental stressors, like cold weather and pollution. 

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Collagen

Serving as one of the main building blocks for our bodies (including our bones, skin, hair, muscles and more) collagen is a vital protein. It naturally depletes over time, resulting in loss of firmness (among other things), so collagen is often incorporated into skin care to help improve the look of plumpness, suppleness and radiance. 

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Hyaluronic acid

Despite its name, hyaluronic acid is a moisturising ingredient, not an exfoliant. Unlike AHAs and BHAs, hyaluronic acid is a humectant, meaning it attracts water molecules and retains moisture to hydrate skin. It naturally occurs in our skin, but production slows as we grow older, causing our skin to become rougher and drier in texture. To counteract this, adding hyaluronic acid — which as an ingredient holds up to 1,000 times its weight in water — into your routine can boost your skin’s hydration levels to dewy new heights. 

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Glycerin

Another humectant hero, glycerin attracts (and traps) moisture into skin, resulting in a smoother appearance and a more hydrated feel. And that’s not all, as well as working on its own, glycerin works to supercharge other ingredients too — because of this, it’s often combined with other ingredients, like essential oils, to further strengthen their moisturising benefits. 

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Woman with a towel wrapped around her hair applies an oil to her skin.

Niacinamide

Also known as vitamin B3, niacinamide helps reduce the look of pores and uneven skin tone while also supporting a healthy, happy skin barrier. 

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Peptides

Put a peptide in your step (and skin care routine) with this protein-packed ingredient. Peptides work to moisturise skin and may help reduce the appearance of inflammation and uneven skin tone, while also smoothing the look of fine lines and wrinkles. 

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Retinol

Derived from vitamin A, retinol is a true skin care superhero, working to slough away dead skin cells to help renew your complexion. Ideal for targeting the look of fine lines, blemishes, pigmentation and more, retinol is a powerful tool in any skin care collection, but should be introduced into your routine gradually to avoid irritation.  

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Retinal

Like retinol, retinal (short for retinaldehyde) is a form of vitamin A — although, according to Medik8, it’s further along the vitamin A pathway than retinol, and just one conversion step away from becoming retinoic acid, meaning it acts faster on the skin. 

SPF

Found in your sunscreen, SPF stands for Sun Protection Factor, which is the amount of time your skin will be protected from UV rays when wearing it. The higher the SPF, the longer this protection lasts — and yes, it is a non-negotiable when it comes to looking after your skin. In fact, to protect your skin from UV damage (and, in turn, prevent signs of premature ageing) SPF should be worn every day. 

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Squalane

A moisturising must-have and natural emollient, squalane prevents water loss and supports your skin’s moisture barrier. The result? A complexion that’s deeply hydrated. 

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Vitamin C

Not just found in oranges (although that’s certainly a tasty option), vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that helps to brighten the skin, fading dark circles et al in the process, when applied topically. L-ascorbic acid is the most likely form of vitamin C you’ll find in your skin care, but there are other forms to look out for, like 3-0 ethyl ascorbic acid and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate. 

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SHOP SKIN CARE INGREDIENTS

Now you’ve got the knowledge, are you ready to add these ingredients to your skin care routine? Enter: The Skin Essentials Edit. Starring everything you need to get back to basics with your AM andPM routine (or create a new one from scratch), this expertly curated Edit harnesses the power of essential ingredients like hyaluronic acid, vitamin C, peptides, ceramides and more. 

Fancy going one step further? Elevate your complexion to sparkling new heights with radiance-revealing staples like the Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 25% AHA + 2% BHA Exfoliant Peel Choice Skin Perfecting 25% AHA + 2% BHA Exfoliant Peel, Medik8’s Crystal Retinal 6 and Thank You Farmer’s Sun Project Water Sun Cream SPF50+ PA+++. 
Jade Biggs
Writer and expert
View Jade Biggs's profile
Having spent much of her career in the world of glossy magazines, Jade is one of Cult Beauty's Senior Copywriters. As well as a passion for all-things-words (she can — and will, if asked — write a dissertation on fake tan), she has heaps of skin care and beauty know-how (including how to achieve the perfect winged eyeliner again and again... and again). When she’s not applying fake tan or admiring her knife-sharp liner, she’s an adoring mum to four feline fur babies, hunting down inspiration for her next set of acrylic nails or watching endless episodes of reality TV.
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