Skincare’s Most Efficacious Actives

When it comes to modern skincare, innovation starts with ingredients. Today’s most effective formulas go beyond hydration and protection — they harness cutting-edge actives proven to transform skin health at a cellular level. From collagen-boosting peptides to barrier-strengthening ectoin, discover the innovative ingredients backed by science and beloved by formulators. Here, leading skincare experts behind some of the most-loved brands reveal all you need to know about their hero formulations and share their top tips for maximum efficacy.

Centella Asiatica: The Gentle Healer

“There’s a noticeable rise in facial redness driven by the overuse or misuse of potent actives like retinoids and acids,’ says Dr Christine Hall, a GP & Aesthetic Physician at Dr. Jart. “We often have busy lifestyles and heavy workloads and a combination of poor diet and stress will also contribute to redness and a worsening in conditions such as rosacea. On a positive note however, as doctors, we are much better at recognising it and diagnosing conditions like eczema and rosacea and so the management of it is improving considerably. Calming, protective formulas like Dr. Jart+’s new Cicapair — formulated with Centella and mineral SPF — are essential for restoring balance and protecting the skin whilst providing undetectable coverage that corrects the redness to create an even tone and more balanced overall complexion.”

Dr. Jart+ Cicapair Tiger Grass Color Correcting Treatment 50ml

46.40€

Growth Factors: Support Skin Rejuvenation

“Growth factors are proteins that naturally occur in our skin,” explains BIOEFFECT’s Chief R&D Officer, Dr Sigrún Dögg Guðjónsdóttir. “They send signals that keep cells active and healthy. Growth factors help boost collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid production — key elements for firmness, elasticity, and hydration. As we age, our natural levels decline, leading to visible signs of aging. BIOEFFECT’s biocompatible growth factors reactivate these processes to support skin renewal, repair, and resilience for a smoother, firmer, healthier look.”

“For maximum efficacy, BIOEFFECT’s growth factor products should be applied directly to clean skin. This ensures our biocompatible growth factors can make optimal contact with skin cells without interference from other active ingredients. We recommend using them on freshly cleansed skin, ideally morning and evening when the skin’s natural repair processes are most active. Consistent daily use — and avoiding products with harsh acids immediately before or after — will help maintain the integrity of the growth factors and deliver the best visible results.”

152.50€

Ectoin: Strengthen Your Barrier

"Ectoin is an amino acid derivative first discovered in bacteria that thrive in harsh environments, such as salty lakes,’ outlines Heather Wish, the Senior Education Manager at Paula’s Choice. “Scientists found that it acts like a strong shield, protecting cells by stabilising proteins, enzymes, and DNA. When applied to skin, ectoin delivers that same protective benefit — helping to guard against environmental stressors like UVA rays and pollution while preventing moisture loss. This not only supports a healthy skin barrier and microbiome but also helps calm sensitivity, reduce visible signs of aging, and promote a smoother, more even-looking complexion."

"Our 7% Ectoin Milky Hydrating Serum pairs this powerful ingredient with seven molecular weights of hyaluronic acid for deep, long-lasting hydration and a protective moisture barrier. To use, apply 2–3 drops to the face and neck after cleansing, toning, and exfoliating. It can be worn alone or layered with your favourite non-SPF serum or moisturiser. For best results, use twice daily and always follow with a broad-spectrum sunscreen of at least SPF 30 to maximise the skin-protective benefits.”

Paula's Choice 7% Ectoin + Hyaluronic Acid Milky Hydrating Serum 20ml

48.59€

Fermented Ingredients: Nutrient-Rich Power

"Biofermentation is a sustainable and eco-friendly process that can transform a natural substance via a micro-organism, changing its biochemistry and, in turn, its activity on skin,” explains Dr Julia Borowczyk, Orveda’s Scientific Communication Director. “In skincare, it produces super high-quality extracts in a controlled environment and without harmful solvents. In other words, it can augment plant’s nutrient content while breaking it down into smaller, skin compatible compounds.”

“Two of the three actives that make Orveda’s Signature Complex are made through Biofermentation — our kombucha is bio-sourced in France and then bio-augmented through fermentation for one week at 25 - 28 degrees, during which time new nutrients are generated. The marine enzymes are produced by thermo-ferments, microorganisms able to resist very harsh conditions and that are cultivated for several hours at 70 degrees. Under these specific conditions they produce higher quantities of ‘extreme enzymes’. The Omnipotent Concentrate is a serum designed to be used twice every day to ensure maximum efficacy. In just 4 weeks it restores skin integrity by boosting skin hydration by +65%, strengthening the skin’s barrier by +19% and reducing redness by 50%. In recent studies, The Omnipotent Concentrate formulas was proven to reduce 3 senescence markers by up to an incredible 86%.”