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THE CULT RESIDENCY WITH ALLIES OF SKIN

Effortless, effective and user-friendly, Allies of Skin has become the go-to for those looking for maximal impact from minimal steps. Founded by Nicolas Travis, whose personal skin journey – and the money wasted in pursuit of a solution – drove him to formulate ‘Allies’, this line was developed to cherish your skin with a buffet of nutrients proven to optimise health and resilience.

The emphasis is on empowerment, with 'positive' products help to offset the effects of life enjoyed – protecting from pollution and diminishing the visible effects of stress, the sun or too much fun...

We caught up with Nicolas about the brand and its beginnings – from what differentiates Allies of Skin, to how to build a custom skincare ritual.

Cult Beauty: Allies of Skin has such a strong identity – can you talk us through the brand’s beginnings?

Nicolas Travis: When I was 19 I was in a traumatic accident that left me with facial deformities – and what followed were years of botched surgeries – not to mention an overwhelming amount of time, money and energy spent on skincare that didn’t deliver. I felt like a failure until therapy helped me to realise that if I was having such complicated feelings about my appearance, surely others were too? That became the seed for Allies of Skin.

With a background in biochemistry and pharmaceutical science, my first goal was to create products that would help to heal my own skin – but I also saw a gap. So many brands were either ‘all marketing and no substance’, or clinically effective but disconnected from their customers. I wanted to build something that was resolutely transparent about results and ingredients, while also bringing kindness to an industry that frequently feeds feelings of inadequacy. And I was keen to use my experience with infections and necrosis to harness the regenerative properties of Epidermal Growth Factors and Copper Tripeptide, which are frequently used for wound healing in-clinic.

It took two years of clinical trials and ten revisions of our first product before we launched in 2016. Every formula had to be, what I call a “supercharged clinical” - meaning maxed-out concentrations of clinically proven actives that do more in less time. That commitment hasn’t changed.

CB: Your products are renowned for being multi-functional and results-driven – what is Allies of Skin’s skincare philosophy, and how does it differ from traditional routines?

NT: Maximal results, minimal steps. I don’t believe you need a 10-step routine to get incredible skin. In fact, I think that can be overwhelming – both for you, and your skin barrier. Every Allies of Skin product is designed to be multi-functional – each is packed with clinically proven actives at their most potent concentrations, so a single product can do the work of several.

Our formulation ethos is something I’m deeply proud of. It’s about achieving the absolute most with each product, and delivering exactly what we promise.

We are also focused on skin longevity. Our products don’t just address today’s concerns – they support your skin for the long term, helping to maintain its peak performance far beyond what traditional formulations offer.

CB: Skin regeneration is central to your formulations – why are growth factors so important, and how do they work within your products?

NT: Growth factors are something I’ve been obsessed with for years. They’re essentially the messengers that help to support the skin’s natural renewal processes. As we age, growth factor activity declines, and that’s also when you start to see changes in firmness, elasticity and that natural ‘bounce’.

What makes them so compelling is that they work beyond the surface. I see growth factors as the bridge between clinical science and the skin’s own process – working with your skin rather than forcing an effect. They can also complement other skincare actives so well, rather than clashing.

CB: The Growth Factors Serum is one of your most-loved formulas – what makes it so special, and who would benefit most from incorporating it into their routine?

NT: The Multi Peptides & GF (Growth Factor) Advanced Lifting Serum is the product I’m most proud of. If I could pick one, this would be it.

In our Growth Factor Serum formula, we use SH-Oligopeptide-1 Growth Factor Complex at a 3% concentration, paired with synergistic peptides, MSM and antioxidants, so everything works together in an optimal environment, visibly improving the appearance of firmness and resilience over time. We also use bio-engineered human-identical growth factor, rather than obtaining from a plant.

It benefits everyone, and I formulated it in order to be layered with other actives if desired, including retinoids, acids or your other go-tos. I use it every single day – and because it has been clinically tested across the spectrum of concerns, not just lines and wrinkles – it can enhance hydration, improve the look of sagging and skin's overall appearance. We’ve even tested it on skin post-weight loss, with great results on the look of skin laxity.

CB: You approach brightening from a clinical, results-first perspective – how do the ingredients throughout Allies of Skin work to effectively target uneven tone?

NT: There are so many targeted actives we’ve chosen to target dark spots and pigmentation – namely:

Azelaic Acid is a brilliant multi-tasker that is famously hard to formulate elegantly. It works to visibly reduce the appearance of post-blemish marks and uneven tone while also calming the look of redness, and it’s gentle enough for sensitive skin. I’m currently obsessed with our Azelaic & Kojic Advanced Clarifying Serum.

Tranexamic Acid is one of the most underrated brightening actives in skincare that excels when paired with the right ingredients in a formula. It helps to visibly address the look of dark spots and uneven tone, is exceptionally well-tolerated and pairs seamlessly with other actives without causing irritation since it doesn’t exfoliate – despite being an ‘acid’.

Mandelic Acid An AHA that works more gradually than something like glycolic, making it ideal for sensitive skin and deeper skin tones, while still refining the skin’s surface. It helps to reveal a more even, refreshed complexion without compromising the skin barrier.

Vitamin C The brightening classic, this also acts as a potent antioxidant that helps to defend against environmental damage while c, this also acts as a potent antioxidant, while visibly improving radiance and tone. Concentration and stability are everything, which is why I formulated a unique (99.9%) waterless formula, targeted towards those looking for glowing, light-reflective skin.

CB: If someone is completely new to Allies of Skin, which products would you consider the routine heroes, and how would you recommend building a simple but effective routine around them?

NT: If you’re starting fresh, keep it simple. Unless you’re under 25 or so, the Multi Peptides & GF Advanced Lifting Serum is my non-negotiable – it does everything, from firming and plumping to visibly smoothing. Pair it with THE ONE SPF 50 Invisible Gel in the morning, and you’re already covering a treatment product with a preventative, protecting SPF.

If you have both blemishes and pigmentation, the Azelaic & Kojic Advanced Clarifying Serum is a wonderful ally as it will both reduce breakouts as well as fade dark spots and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. It also helps to keep pores minimised and skin looking bright and glassy.

From there I would add our flagship 5-in-1 moisturiser, the Peptides & Antioxidants Advanced Daily Treatment – one of my first formulations to address dryness, dullness, texture, fine lines and antioxidant protection in one step – it can even be used around the eye area, as well as the face and neck.

Less steps, more impact. You don’t need ten products, you need the right ones. Even one Allies of Skin product will shift the way your skin looks and feels – that's the standard I want to hold ourselves to.

Verity Douglas
Verity Douglas Writer and expert

Cult Beauty’s Content Editor and a Cult Beauty OG, Verity loves nothing more than the marriage of language and lip balm. A quintessential Libran, she’s a self-professed magpie for luxury ‘must-haves' and always pursuing the new and the niche — from the boujee-est skin care to cutting-edge tech. Balancing an urge to stop the clock with her desire to embrace the ageing process (and set a positive example for her daughter), Verity's a retinol obsessive and will gladly share her thoughts about the time-defying gadgets, masks and treatments worth the splurge...

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